With a landmark location and an impeccable fine dining pedigree, IDAM has always stood apart from anything else in the Doha dining scene. But 10 years after it opened, can we still call IDAM Doha’s fine dining leader?
The answer is…yes and a qualified maybe. But more of that later.
IDAM’s History
A decade ago, when IDAM opened in all its white gloved Alain Ducasse elegance, its menu was a blend of near east/Orient and Eurocentric west. Billing itself as Qatari/French fusion, the famed harees with gold foil was a regular item on the menu.
Then the empire expanded – Jiwan and its millions of pearls glittered at the National Museum of Qatar. And with it, the fusion mantle was augmented. I wondered how IDAM would fare when this happened, and for a while it continued on the parallel menu path.
IDAM’s Setting
On my recent visit, Doha’s mercurial winter was just starting so it was cool enough in the middle of the afternoon to sit on their terrace. This is a truly unique view, across the jewel like waters of the Corniche to West Bay and then south towards the port and beyond.
It’s well documented interiors remain dazzling. The Philippe Starck-designed dining room is flanked by a luxurious black carpet embellished with white calligraphy, bespoke lighting and Baccarat crystal accents.
IDAM’s New Menus
The menu has changed up, as it does seasonally but there are other tweaks, a sign of the changing market and its new demands. Gone is the a la carte menu, replaced by a five course lunch menu QR320 and a six or eight course “Experience Menu for QR520/QR690.
Gone it seems are the complimentary drinks pairing for the set menus, replaced by an additional charge (QR50/QR70/QR90). In a city where water can cost QR50 a bottle at restaurants, this is great value. And juices/mocktails are a work of art, prepare at your table, with care taken to match with your meal.
The famed dessert/pastry trolley has also been consigned to history. Perhaps Ramadan will see a reboot.
IDAM – The Food
The beauty of the IDAM experience lies in the details, a trio of snacks arrives on a tray, perfectly plated and poised. This is followed by a trolley with an air dried leg of beef perched on it. A chef arrives and nimbly carves off several wafer thin slices, which are presented to you on a tiny plate.
The menu proper kicks off with a delicate emulsion of barely cooked, sweet langoustines, bathed in a deceptively rich sauce. “Mushroom on the Embers” follows soon after, a robust and smokey concoction, given a twinge of lightness from the shaved rind of an almost prehistoric looking Buddha’s Hand lemon.
Next a shiny disc is brought to the table – it looks like a tarte and its is – a caramelized gallette of celeriac. A wedge is sliced from it and served with a vanilla scented cream – which accents the celeriac’s undertone of sweetness. I’ve not seen anything like this in Doha, it feels a little daring but also comforting.
IDAM’s Star Dish
This adventurous approach continues with what I feel is the highlight of the menu. this is another chef delivered item, finished at the table. A filet of John Dory has been roasted on a bone marrow, at the table the chef scapes marrow, serving it with the fish. Dory is a firm, almost muscular fish but the flesh is slightly sweet, milky even.
It’s earthy, moreish and redolent of winter. The bone marrow is buttery and creamy because of its high fat content, the two meld easily together, pulled back from being overwhelming thanks to a hit of citrus from bitter tangerine.
It’s a dish that, putting it mildly, on paper shouldn’t work. But in reality, it’s a glorious umami hit.
I demurred on the quail listed on the menu – something about devouring tiny birds has never sat right with me. Instead I’m offered a silky filet of wagyu, festooned with shaved truffle and finished with a smooth cabbage sauce, given a jolt by the addition of spiced vinegar. The least adventurous dish on my menu, it was still a study in great execution and clean flavors.
An off menu cheese course arrived – a wedge of unctuous truffled Cremeaux de Bourgogne, with its white boom and mushroom scent, additional truffles had been shaved over it for added measure. This was a gift from the team and was being featured on the then festive menu.
IDAM’s Desserts
Desserts are always a strength for IDAM, the beetroot and chocolate “composition” is undersold on the written menu. When plated, it’s an architectural masterpiece – slivers of just cooked beetroot with a light chocolate sauce.
A flurry of petit fours and a citrus almond tart, off menu but included, took away some of the sting of paying extra for their tea service.
IDAM’s Service
It’s almost a moot point – the service here is world class. Informed, formal without being stuffy, engaged. the team works seamlessly in a way I’ve really only seen in European restaurants of the same caliber. The new drinks pairing set up is almost too much, but a nice value add for diners.
Is IDAM Still Doha’s Fine Dining Leader?
As for its fine dining mantle – that is undisputed. But, there are others giving it a red hot go – case in point Le Mediterranee Robuchon, which I believe will become one Doha’s most talked about spots in 2024. Also Alba will find its feet.
Eating at IDAM is a glimpse of what we can achieve on the dining scene here in Qatar. IDAM has cut itself loose from the “fusion cuisine” bonds that I believe could have been holding it back in recent years. Leaning into its French/Mediterranean fine dining roots has made IDAM an even better experience.
The details
IDAM Doha
Museum of Islamic Art, The Corniche
$$$$
Must order: The fish and seafood dishes really shine at IDAM
Good to know: It’s dry…
Rating: ****
While you are here…
Thanks for reading my new review: 10 Years After it Opened, is IDAM Still Doha’s Fine Dining Leader?
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Please note:
While I pay for a large portion of my experiences that I write about (like this one at IDAM), I am sometimes provided meals and other experiences free of charge or at a reduced rate. However, I make it clear that I am under no obligation to give a positive review.
