Carbone’s NYC mother restaurant opened more than a decade ago and it’s still one of the hardest reservations to score. A living room of sorts for A Listers (Selena, Bad Bunny, Beckham offspring, Obama, Kim pre and post Kanye), social media adjacent celebs. It bills itself as an “elevated red sauce joint” with nostalgic overtones.
Carbone Doha’s Back Story
The Doha outpost opened in a blaze of glory in 2022, one of the gold rush of international names that saw an opportunity in Qatar. Some have gone by the wayside (peace out Pura La Vida); others have thrived (note Beef Bar on a Friday; Cipriani et al). Carbone Doha, from the US-based Major Food Group, has hummed along, sitting amongst the other big names on the avenue of foodie dreams in Al Maha Island.
I had avoided it, fearing overhyped food and underwhelming service, not convinced the mid-century retro New York vibe and food could be transplanted here successfully.
But there comes a time in every food writer’s life when two things happen – they have to try a place they have avoided and, they are proven wrong.
So here I am on a mid-week night, being escorted to a table in the main dining room by a woman dressed, I think, in a 1920s style Godfather-era dress, meant to hark back to the old Corleone days. There are places in Qatar that do this kind of kitsch themed eatery in a much more serious, less iroic fashion. Here, it’s tongue in cheek, self-consciously so.
Carbone’s culinary inspirations
This is in keeping with Carbone’s MO – a homage to Italian-American eateries in New York. Italian-American food was born out of the mass migration of (mostly southern) Italians to the US in the 19th and 20th centuries. Many of the dishes we may call Italian, are in an Italian-American evolution – meatballs, chicken or veal parmigiana, garlic bread.
The Carbone Doha Dining Room and Vibe
The dining room itself is an exercise in maximalism – plush jewel colored velvet furnishings, dazzling crystal chandeliers, white tablecloths. It’s low lit and frankly, a little sexy.
A band is playing the night we visit, the room is half full, the lovely terrace more so. But there is a low hum of activity. We sink into our comfy chairs and our waiter brings negronis and their famed chunks of sharply salty pecorino romano cheese; toasted garlic bread and a bowl of moreish pickled cauliflower.
As a diner, I felt at ease and…happy. It was a unique feeling.
Carbone Doha’s Food
Our starters follow soon after – a silky carpaccio Piedmontese (QR255 -sharp intake of breath) made with American tenderloin is festooned with cremini mushrooms, walnuts and finished with an earthy truffle dressing. Flavors and textures well balanced.
Beets Siciliana (QR85), hunks of beetroot roasted until rendered almost sticky sweet, pulled back from the edge with sections of orange and grapefruit. A plate of marinated eggplant and zucchini (QR105) given some color and movement with whipped ricotta and shreds of Caciocavallo, an Italian stretched-curd cheese. It’s a little too samey in terms of flavors, but probably a crowd pleaser.
That (in) Famous Pasta
The menu has a section called “Macaroni” and it’s basically what we are here for. The Carbone’s spicy rigatone (QR160 – yes that’s right), so famous you can buy a jarred version of it. The actual “red sauce” Doha version is albeit denuded of its usual vodka, but doesn’t disappoint. Heat from the Calabrian chilis, a touch of cream and gently coated al dente noodles. Comforting, familiar with a very slight edge.
A plate of fettucine con funghi with hand made noodles is a solid, likeable rendition of a simple, highly seasonal pasta popular in Italy, with fresh porcini mushrooms.
Carbone Doha’s Mains
We edge into the mains, an almost decadent (also priced at an eye watering QR550) whole Branzino fillet, lightly grilled and bathed in a herby sauce. I don’t think I’ve seen Branzino, known as European Bass on a Doha menu for a long time. It’s a real treat.
Meanwhile a sizeable marbled Wagyu ribeye fillet, (again a punchy QR725 – uh huh that’s right), a perfect medium rare and seasoned hard, just as it should be. It’s been grilled on charcoal and this makes all the difference, slightly smokey, some charred bits giving character. It’s finished with a zingy salsa verde, a bulb of roasted garlic nestled on the plate to be smeared on the sliced beef.
Even the contorni (QR65 each), or sides, have some flair, in particular a bowl of Potatoes Louie, crisp and roasted in duck fat. Desserts at this point are almost an afterthought, but a NY style cheesecake, is a cheesy (pun intended) but worthy finale.
The Service
Throughout our meal the servers zips from table to table, checking on us, our drinks, our plates. The service is engaged and has some personality – still a rarity in this city. We felt well taken care of, pampered even.
The Verdict on Carbone Doha
Let me tell you what Carbone is not – it’s not a traditional Italian restaurant and should in no way be viewed as such. To be honest, given the celebrity pedigree, I expected pretension, expensive and lackluster food. What I did not expect was well executed, pricy, yet nuanced versions of Italian-American classics.
Carbone’s menu and cooking represents something many of us are perhaps familiar with – the huge, saucy, cheesy portions of Italian-American cooking. Yes, it’s relentlessly, eyewateringly pricey and almost dripping with self-consciousness, but also just fun and delicious.
The details
Carbone Doha
Al Maha Island, Lusail
$$$$
Must order: the spicy rigatone and if your budget stretches, the grilled meats. The tableside Caesar Salad is also fun.
Good to know: It’s expensive…
Rating: ***
While you are here…
Thanks for reading my new review: Does Carbone Doha Transcend the Hype?
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Please note:
While I pay for a large portion of my experiences that I write about, I am sometimes provided meals and other experiences free of charge or at a reduced rate. However, I make it clear that I am under no obligation to give a positive review.
