Greece,  Restaurant Review

Review: Is there more to OPA Doha than its Instagrammable interiors?

OPA Doha takes the “more is more” approach to its decoration. It’s almost an assault on the senses – a wall of busts of imperious Greek philosophers (or the younger, hotter cousins of Socrates, Plato and Aristotle perhaps) that dreamy flower trimmed hallway. Let’s not forget the white washed walls, taking you to Mykonos via the Lusail Expressway.

But, is there more to OPA Doha than its Instagrammable interiors and plate smashing fun?

OPA Doha entered the Qatar market along with a flurry of similar Greek inspired restaurants in 2022. At last count there no less than seven Greek/adjacent restaurants in Doha. The appeal of Greek cuisine is obvious – robust and familiar yet robust flavors that lend themselves to family-style dining.

OPA Doha – The Interiors

You enter OPA via the driveway at the Hakkasan side of the St Regis. It took me a hot minute to realise this was actually the space once occupied by the much missed Opal and Gordon Ramsay. So complete is the re-do, that it wasn’t until I ventured onto the restaurant’s outdoor terrace that it clicked.

You can’t talk about OPA Doha without talking about the interiors. They are also so self consciously over the top that they are begging to be talked about.

The main dining room is again, simultaneously whitewashed yet extra, it’s also spacious, all the more room for the dancing and plate smashing that comes later. The room is overseen by a mural/fresco, a man’s almost mournful eyes peek out, following you around the room. His eyes remind me of the “crying” emoji…I need to get off social media.

OPA Doha – The Menu

If I had a riyal for every time I head a menu described as “XXX with a twist” I could get an Uber to Al Khor (but not one back). That said, OPA’s menu reads like a “greatest hits” of the Greek food we all know and love. The menus themselves are many, five in fact, each one propped on your table like a little library of food and drinks. Overwhelmed, we order some well made cocktails and leave the food in the hands of the experts.

The food comes from the kitchen but is finished tableside by the Greek chef, who takes the time to give the history and ingredients – I love this touch. It takes time but, I’m invested in the story of the OPA hummus (QR77) and its myriad of accompaniments. Pine nuts, harissa, feta all folded into the hummous at your table and topped with a moreish mound of dried lamb pieces.

OPA Doha – The Starters

A bowl of Greek salad (QR59/QR105) arrives, a hunk of great quality feta sits atop the familiar melange of tomatoes, olives and onions, again mixed and broken up at the table. A cold starter of bluefin tuna tartare (QR135) is given a kick from a slick of tangy greek yoghurt but it’s a bit forgettable compared the more “traditional” dishes.

Brochettes of tender grilled and marinated octopus (QR135) sitting atop a silky white bean puree, elevated just a little by a spicy green harissa paste.

I admit that Greek cuisine is one of the few that successfully combine my two great loves – seafood and cheese. I speak of course, of prawn saganaki (QR115). The OPA version is almost umami overload – the tang of the buttery tomato sauce and feta almost too much for the plump sweet prawns. Almost. It’s pulled back from the precipice thanks to a little hot of fig jam and toasted walnuts. More please.

The humble dolmades (QR82) is given a very glossy Doha upgrade, stuffed with wagyu and an earthy mushroom accented rice, presented a little glossy tower. Meanwhile a handsome duo of spanikopita cigars is familiar and well executed.

Plate Smashing

At some point during the night a hostess slips a stack of plates on our table in preparation for the plate smashing portion of the evening. As an aside, the smashing happens twice each evening and you are charged QR120 for 10 plates. These are apparently imported from Greece just for the purpose of smashing, I get that, but charging for the pleasure feels a little, not Greek.

This is however, a fun part of the evening, the staff kick off the dancing and smashing, the diners encouraged to step up when the familiar opening notes of Zorba hit. We demur, no one needs to see me dance after a bellyful of Greek food.

OPA Doha Mains

OPA’s version of the classic moussaka (QR197) is a real surprise – a richly braised wagyu beef short rib presented like an elegant terrine, the kasseri cheese giving it an unexpected zing.

A Flintstones size skewer of chicken kontosouvli (QR365) – Greek chicken roasted on a spit – arrives with a flourish – served with accompaniments like tzatziki, lettuce, wafer thin fried potato and spicy sauces, it’s a do-it-yourself extravaganza. The corn fed chicken thighs beautifully marinated and tender, with a faint hint of lemon. This is great to share with a group – the chicken pieces are each the size of a small child’s hand.

This is from their “Greek Feast” menu, designed to share and for larger groups and our platter could easily feed up to four hangry adults.

OPA Doha – The Experience

The room, food and wider dining spaces do lend themselves to larger groups, you don’t go to a restaurant like this for a quiet romantic dinner. There is a DJ and at times it’s loud, but never overwhelmingly so.

Plate smashing and dancing duties aside, service is relaxed, engaged and seamless. The team genuinely seem to enjoy what they do – which is so refreshing. This also helps create a more casual, laid back experience.

What isn’t casual is the pricing – it is punchy to put it mildly, sitting at the higher end of the spectrum. Having done the “whole experience”, you could easily order from the hot and cold starters plus a couple of drinks and have a great meal.

Another hiccup – no Greek wines. A glass of Agiorgitiko would be the perfect accompaniment. Looking at you QDC. Their wine list includes French, Kiwi and Argentine wines by the glass starting at QR75.

OPA Doha – The Verdict

So, is there more to OPA Doha than its Instagrammable interiors? It would be easy to put OPA into that “all show and no go” category that Doha excels at. But an unfussy approach to service and generous servings both explain OPA Doha’s easy, crowd pleasing appeal appeal. But the well executed Greek classics come from a culinary team who also know what they are doing and do that with flair.

Is OPA Doha Instagrammable? Oh yes. Does the food and service transcend this? Also, very much, yes.

The Details

OPA Doha

The St Regis Doha, Al Gassar

$$$$

Must order: prawn saganaki and the moussaka.

Good to know: You pay extra for the smashing plates (and it’s optional)

Rating: ***

While you are here…

Thanks for reading my new review: Is there more to OPA Doha than its Instagrammable interiors?

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Please note:
While I pay for a large portion of my experiences that I write about, I am sometimes provided meals and other experiences free of charge or at a reduced rate. However, I make it clear that I am under no obligation to give a positive review.

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