It doesn’t take a food writer to tell you that Doha is spoiled for choice with some good Indian food at all price points. At the upper end, we’re also well – Rivaaj, Jamavar, Chingari among the standouts.
Gymkhana opened in 2022 at the Katara Hills LXR. If you are unsure where that is, you’re not alone. It’s in the verdant…hills inside Katara, past the Padel courts. The hotel and restaurant benefit from the elevation, but the view from the admittedly lovely terrace is across the… Lusail Expressway which, is well, very Doha. But I imagine in winter it’s perfect.
Fun fact – this is Gymkhana’s second iteration in Doha. In the mid-2010s it was housed in one of the boutique hotels in Souq Waqif. This one is a branch of the acclaimed Gymkhana Mayfair, which has two Michelin stars (the first in 2014 and the second earned this year), brought to Doha by Qatar F&B powerhouse Aura Hospitality.
Gymkhana’s Interiors
The interiors of the new location eschew the colonial connotations of the name – rather it’s all stylish and modern, rich, dark woods and plush jewel tones. Of course, with the Doha signature imposing chandelier for extra drama. Seats are comfy and designed to sink into, given the size of the portions we encounter here, this is a design requirement. All these lush, hotel style interiors are reflected in the bill, the pricing of which does reflect its five star pedigree.
Gymkhana’s Menu – Starters
The Doha menu is adapted from the London one and is very much tour of India’s best known regional dishes. We kick off with gol guppa (as they are known in the Punjab), aka pani puri (QR60), a London crossover. These are little shells you fill with spiced potato and top with a spicy “water” of tamarind or mint. These little spice bombs lay the groundwork for the meal ahead.
Sticking with the street food theme, we plump for the universal favorite samosa chaat (QR75). The Gymkhana take sees the samosa presented like flaky little gift bags with tangy dollops of yoghurt snd tamarind. You smash the samosa and mix the components together and the result is a pleasing and spicy tangle of textures and favours.
For our kebabs course, we opted for lasooni (garlic) tiger prawns with red pepper chutney (QR145) – this is again from the London menu. The three prawns are plump, sweet and meaty, almost a meal unto themselves, and on just the right side of scorched after a grapple with the volcanic tandoor. Meanwhile a tower of spicy tandoori broccoli (QR95) arrives at the table with a crown of creamy curd, offsetting the al dente spiced stalks. I like this way to eat my greens.
Gymkhana’s Menu – Mains
A bit of internet sleuthing (aka menu hunting) reveals that the Doha outpost of Gymkhana treads a very mainstream path. The Mayfair HQ is known for the more daring interpretations of Indian cuisine such as a goat brain and game meats like guinea fowl and partridge. I appreciate this is adapted for the Doha market both in terms of taste and availability.
We do see flashes of this creativity in the menu for example in an earthy morel mushroom and truffle biryani (QR220), which is boisterously fragrant. But otherwise the Doha menu is firmly in favourites territory, with some crossovers from London, like a richly spiced and familiar chicken butter masala and a creamy Goan prawn curry (both QR165 each).
Servings are befitting of a billionaire’s son’s wedding banquet – generous to a fault. The night we visited every indoor table was occupied and even a couple outside in the Doha heat. Service on this night felt understaffed and in perpetual motion – but the team was still cheerful and engaged.
Gymkhana’s Drinks and Desserts
Desserts are an afterthought given the onslaught of mains snd starters but a serviceable chocolate tart gives us pause.
While the restaurant is dry (yes I may have buried the lede here), there is a solid, if slightly overpriced selection of non-alcoholic cocktails using Lyres as well as the usual fruity cocktails. I realise this may an issue for some people.
Gymkhana – The Verdict
Doha’s Gymkhana may be tamer in terms of menu than its London counterpart, but there is nothing reticent about the robust flavours. This crowd pleasing approach works, primarily because the dishes are well executed and thoughtful.
The details
Gymkhana Doha
Katara Hills
$$$-$$$$
Must order: The truffle and morel biryani
Good to know: It’s a dry restaurant. Also there is a multi-course tasing menu for QR550 nd a business lunch for a reasonable QR125.
Rating: **
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Please note:
While I pay for a large portion of my experiences that I write about, I am sometimes provided meals and other experiences free of charge or at a reduced rate. However, I make it clear that I am under no obligation to give a positive review.
