There’s an October chill in the East London air when the dubious uber drive deposits me in front of an Edwardian style building. “Is it open?” he asks me, peering through his windshield. This is a valid question, because the building looked like…a town hall.
Primarily because it is or was, a center of local government. This brings its own set of (admittedly, triggering) memories for me, both my parents were elected local officials, so a large part of my childhood was spent within buildings just like this. Late evenings, doing my homework while half listening to debates about curbs, guttering and the like. I digress…
This building has now been converted into a rather hip Town Hall Hotel, which is a member of Design Hotels, part of Marriott Bonvoy, in the unexpected (for this traveler anyway) area of London’s Bethnal Green, and apparently it’s quite a popular wedding venue. The hotel’s interiors have been given a bang on trend mid-century makeover and this is where I find Da Terra. One of a handful of restaurants in London bestowed with two Michelin stars, and helmed by Brazilian born chef Rafael Cagali, it was perhaps one of my most anticipated meals on this trip.
The Restaurant
Da Terra is also a member of The Luminary Set, a fab collection of Michelin starred venues across the Middle East and Europe, whose team also organized this visit for me. Cagali’s fine dining cred is eclectic and intriguing – Quique Dacosta and Martín Berasategui in Spain, then the Fat Duck and Simon Rogan’s Fera and Aulis. He opened Da Terra in 2019, which was awarded its first Michelin star within eight months and its second in 2021.
The welcome
As is now the rage, diners wait in the restaurant’s bar (called a “pre dining lounge”), eclectically leaning into the mid-century vibe, which tickles my Gen X sensibilities (as does the soundtrack, more of that later though). To me, it felt like hanging out in a friend’s living room before dinner, bent wood chairs, artfully mismatched textile, deliberately eclectic knick knacks. I appreciated this laid-back start to the meal, where a cluster of four snacks are also served, the highlight being a morsel of cassava and lobster.
We’re then led by group into the cosier than expected dining room, there’s an open kitchen and some unusual acoustics. I mention this because all diners are treated to the full and frank views of a table of gilet wearing tech/finance bros, one of whom is more Kendall than Roman. While I now know his unsolicited opinions on a range of current topics, he mercifully refrained from treating us to a version of L to the OG.
I found concentrating on the excellent English wine selection (a surprise, yes) and the even more excellent 1980s soundtrack kept me from leaping across the room to silence him. But all this is drowned out by the accomplished menu. I’m warned to set aside three hours for this experience – the nine course menu, plus snacks (my favorite part) and every single minute is used.
I know it seems I keep harping on about the playlist, but it really did add to the experience. With everything from Duran Duran to Talking Heads, Cagali told me it was mostly his doing, but with contributions from his team. For me it especially hits home, not just because I was born in the 1900s. Also because in Qatar the prevailing approach to atmosphere is LOUD NOISES and Bella Ciao unironically on a loop.
The menu
One of the courses is a bread course, which is a concept that is new to me but not my fellow food writers. A perfectly spherical sourdough loaf with cultured and a rich bone marrow version. It’s a thoughtful and clever presentation, and I do love me some salty, textured butter as much as the next girlie, but bread is not a course.
This aside, the standout dish was, pleasingly, the one I had most been looking forward to. Chef Rafael’s take on Mocqueca, a traditional Brazilian seafood stew that combines indigenous, African, and Portuguese culinary influences.
It is initially presented in a “homestyle” version in a small pot and then portioned with aged trout in a frothy coconut broth, finished with manteiguinha (aka butter) beans, and farofa which is made from toasted cassava flour, giving texture. A little bowl of almost fruity chillies are served on the side. It’s playful yet also respectful of its Brazilian lineage.
Another triumph was a composed dish of hogget, which was another new experience and taste for me, and to my shame I had to google what it was (a sheep aged between one- and two-years FYI). The meat has a more pronounced flavour and more fat than lamb, but is still tender. It has a milder taste than mutton and in the hands of the chef is served with earthy girolle mushrooms, and nutty broad beans.
And “The Quail”, a trio of monochrome striped pillows of quail tortellini in an almost silky, starkly clear broth. The flavors are so strong, and clean it’s almost like a jolt to my senses.
Desserts continue the confident agenda, a baba (a small, rich, yeast-leavened cake t) is served with heady Brazilian cachaça, pistachio ice cream and a very cheeky spoonful of N25 Reserve caviar. My cheese loving heart, however, was captured by a playful sandwich, Romeo and Juliette, goat cheese and tangy guava.
The Service
The service team is polished yet warm, I’m dining solo but feel very much looked after without it being too obvious. Wine is explained in terms I could appreciate and I never once felt talked down to. This is an approach lacking in my dining out in Qatar – it’s either a full court press, or Siberia and rarely a happy balance. It was also refreshing to dine in a restaurant of this Michelin fire power and not feel like I should be sitting in Sunday mass style silence in deference to the chef. It was a relaxed, yet beautifully curated experience.
The verdict
At 245 UK pounds (QR1180) for the menu (matching wines are additions) this is an expensive night out in Bethnal Green. But every dish is considered, elegant but not without personality or even, dare I say, a sense of fun.
The details
Da Terra
Town Hall Hotel & Apartments
8 Patriot Square, London E2 9NF, Regno Unito
Phone: +44 20 7062 2052
While you are here…
Thank you for reading! This is a new series highlighting my life of eating outside of Doha – coming up, more of London, Cairo and Milan (and a few places in between).
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You can read my other reviews here and check out my Foodie Map of Qatar here.
Please note:
While I pay for a large portion of my experiences that I write about, I am sometimes provided meals and other experiences free of charge or at a reduced rate. However, I make it clear that I am under no obligation to give a positive review.
*I was a guest of the restaurant by way of my Luminary Set Brand Ambassadorship. Read more about the fantastic restaurant line-up for The Luminary Set here.
